Driving down the Dalmatian coast we had to decide on where to stay in the Split area. We only had two guide books among us, Lonely Planet for the Balkans and a Rick Steve’s; but both of the books made Split out to be too big and overrun with cruisers for our taste. When we got to Trogir, we decided to drive through the town even though Rick suggested to give it a pass. We were enthralled with this beautiful medieval town as soon as we crossed over the first bridge leading to the island and our decision was easily made.
We found a comfortable and affordable guest house directly across from the harbor with amazing views of the town. The Villa Tudor is small, only five rooms, but they all look out onto the old town. It is a short walk across the bridge and with street parking, it just couldn’t be beat. Breakfast in the morning was one of the best we had in Croatia.
With the rooms found and checked-in and the car parked, we set off on foot to explore Trogir. It is a UNESCO Heritage Listed jewel. The town was originally founded on the island by the Greeks and laid out in a traditional orthogonal grid pattern with the basic city layout being continued under Roman rule and then embellished by the Venetians. Most of what remains today is Venetian construction from the 15th century onwards.
The main sites here are found around the central square and are easy to find. The highlight for me was the Loggia and clock tower with its medieval murals and wooden ceiling. Also on the square, you’ll find the Cathedral of Saint Lovre (Lawerence). Take some time to checkout the so-called Radovan’s Portal. The stone carvings around the entryway here are incredible. After the the main square just spend some time wandering the cobbled streets within the city walls. Outside the main city gate and just over the bridge you’ll find the market. Of course you’ll find all of the usual touristy stuff for sale here, but it is still a working market for the town citizens so it has much more of an authentic feel then you’d expect.
The Kamarlengo Fortress gaurds the harbor entrance from the west side of the island and probably offers some good views from the tower, but it was closed the day we were there and looking at reviews on Trip Advisor doesn’t seem to warrant the cost of entry. It is impressive on the outside, though, and definitely worth a walk around the walls and towers.
Accommodation: We stayed at the Hotel Villa Tudor, and really cannot recommend it enough. Address: Obala kralja Zvonimira 12, 21220, Trogira, +385 21 885 071.
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