Trundling Through Timeless Trogir, Croatia

Trogir-title Driving down the Dalmatian coast we had to decide on where to stay in the Split area. We only had two guide books among us, Lonely Planet for the Balkans and a Rick Steve’s; but both of the books made Split out to be too big and overrun with cruisers for our taste. When we got to Trogir, we decided to drive through the town even though Rick suggested to give it a pass. We were enthralled with this beautiful medieval town as soon as we crossed over the first bridge leading to the island and our decision was easily made.

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We found a comfortable and affordable guest house directly across from the harbor with amazing views of the town. The Villa Tudor is small, only five rooms, but they all look out onto the old town. It is a short walk across the bridge and with street parking, it just couldn’t be beat. Breakfast in the morning was one of the best we had in Croatia.

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With the rooms found and checked-in and the car parked, we set off on foot to explore Trogir.  It is a UNESCO Heritage Listed jewel. The town was originally founded on the island by the Greeks and laid out in a traditional orthogonal grid pattern with the basic city layout being continued under Roman rule and then embellished by the Venetians. Most of what remains today is Venetian construction from the 15th century onwards.

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The main sites here are found around the central square and are easy to find. The highlight for me was the Loggia and clock tower with its medieval murals and wooden ceiling. Also on the square, you’ll find the Cathedral of Saint Lovre (Lawerence). Take some time to checkout the so-called Radovan’s Portal. The stone carvings around the entryway here are incredible. After the the main square just spend some time wandering the cobbled streets within the city walls. Outside the main city gate and just over the bridge you’ll find the market. Of course you’ll find all of the usual touristy stuff for sale here, but it is still a working market for the town citizens so it has much more of an authentic feel then you’d expect.

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The Kamarlengo Fortress gaurds the harbor entrance from the west side of the island and probably offers some good views from the tower, but it was closed the day we were there and looking at reviews on Trip Advisor doesn’t seem to warrant the cost of entry. It is impressive on the outside, though, and definitely worth a walk around the walls and towers.

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Accommodation:  We stayed at the Hotel Villa Tudor, and really cannot recommend it enough. Address: Obala kralja Zvonimira 12, 21220, Trogira, +385 21 885 071.

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Trogir, Croatia

28 Comments

  1. With your blog on a phone or tablet, who needs guide books anymore. You really have a knack for discovering little places off the beaten track and your pictures are always inviting us to more adventures. I really enjoy your posts, i’m catching up as i’m currently on the road and internet is not always available. Happy travels

    1. Jameela, To be honest, I seem to like the places that we find on our own more than what is mentioned in guide books. However, we can’t claim credit at all for Trogir. It’s pretty well-known to all! I hope you are enjoying your travels!

  2. It’s interesting that the guide book suggested you miss Trogir. I agree with them on Split but I too loved our visit to Trogir. So much history such a beautiful town to wander around! Glad you ignored the ‘experts’!

  3. I’ve also been surprised to discover really wonderful places that didn’t rate a mention in a guidebook. I suppose that with a limited number of pages, some things must be left out. Trogir looks very interesting. I can see how its architecture is similar to that in Venice. You made a good decision to stop and explore.

  4. I will remember Trogir for when we eventually get to Croatia. We had the same experience in NhaTrang Vietnam. L.P. gave it an awful review but in our last week in Vietnam it was raining everywhere except NhaTrang which like our hometown in Australia has it’s own microclimate. Even there the forecast showed some rain but we went anyway. No Rain AT ALL and beautiful blue skies, beaches, boat trips, food. We could not have been more pleased, considering the reviews. I think it must depend on when these places are visited to what the reviews are like.

    1. Jan, I agree. And I know that the people writing these books are only people just like me, but I think in major publications they should be careful when disparaging a place. I loved Nha Trang as well!

  5. I’m glad you followed your instincts and went anyway to Trogir. I love that you were able to find suitable accommodation in this gem. It’s the main reason I don’t read movie or theatre reviews. Sometimes we forget they’re people just like us with their own biases.

  6. Ok, putting a new place on my “to visit” list! I’ve actually wanted to go to Croatia for a while, but haven’t worked out the specifics of what I’d like to see. This will help… 🙂 This town looks like it encompasses a lot – from the architecture to the seafront. Lovely!!

  7. I cannot believe that Rick Steve suggests passing on a visit to Trogir?! It’s a real gem and an excellent alternative to staying in Split. The bridge across to Ciovo can get really busy during the summer. And if your car is on the island, you can lose couple of hours in a traffic. Did you explore the other side of Ciovo?

  8. Looks like a real hidden gem! I have found so many amazing things that many of my guidebooks don’t mention or only write a small blurp about, for example Cesky Krumlov was just a small blurp in my book and it turned out to be one of the most amazing little medieval towns ever in the Czech Republic! #TheWeeklyPostcard

  9. Visiting Croatia is an old dream of mine, Corinne, but somehow I didn’t make it there yet. Driving down the Dalmatian coast seems like the best way to experience all the sights. Rather than following the recommendations of the guide books, I’ll listen to your advice and make sure to visit Trogir as well. Your pictures are so appealing!

  10. I recently read Rachel’s post on Trogir and was intrigued by it. Seeing your photos, as well, of the place has made me put Croatia (and Trogir) on my travel wishlist. Very picturesque! #TheWeeklyPostcard

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