Do you love breathtaking views? Check. How about doing some short hikes amidst some amazing cultural events? Yep, check. And food? Do you love amazing local dishes? Absolutely. Check. Then, you will want to schedule this easy, fun, and memorable one-week road trip through the Dolomites, the Italian Alps!

There’s something about a road trip that I love unequivocally. I would rather drive, or in my case, navigate, than take any other kind of transportation. Why? It’s simple. I love being in charge. Yep, completely in charge.
I want to stop when I want to stop. I want to eat when I want to eat. Which, if I’m honest, is often. Along with the main meals of the day, I want to be able to have a coffee and probably a slice of cake or local pastry along the way…without judgment.
Check out our podcast on Streets and Eats where we tell you all about our Dolomite Road Trip.
Jim and I decided a road trip to northern Italy was long overdue. Yes, we’d been there a couple of times, but for us, it always seemed to be a stopover, not the destination. This time, we wanted to spend some time in the area. I was excited about the gorgeous drives, doing some superb hikes, eating some scrumptious food, and just unwinding. I find that being in the car reduces all the “noise” of everyday life, and it’s much easier for me to just enjoy the experience without interruptions.
Living near Ramstein in Rheinland-Pfalz, we are further from Italy than when we lived in the Grafenwöhr area, but that didn’t stop us from driving. The older we get, we like taking more time than less on our trips, slow it down a bit. We have the flexibility to do more than just weekend trips, and we try to take advantage of this.
What ends up happening, though, is that we still pack a lot in; we just do it for longer. Our original thought was to drive to the Dolomites, hang out for a week, and drive back. Nope. Didn’t happen. Instead, because of our love for cow festivals, we had to get to France at the end of the trip for the Retour des Alpages. Oh well. So much for best-laid plans.

Our Trip Driving Through the Italian Alps
Let’s Go!
Because of the distance, we knew that we wanted to get through the Brenner Pass, or as we’d done before spend the night in it. It’s such a beautiful place, and yet most people just drive right over it without stopping.
Mid-Way Stop in the Brenner Pass
We picked a hotel in Matrei am Brenner, a cute little Austrian town, where we would rest and hopefully find a simple local restaurant. As it was between seasons, only one restaurant was open within walking distance, the Hotel Krone. Thankfully, It was pretty good, and we contentedly made our way back to our room.
It was such a welcoming hotel. The concierge (read: cat) not only warmly greeted us but took us right into our room. With sheer terror in his eyes, the manager came running to help, but the cat left without a fight. Too darn sweet!


Vipiteno – An Italian Hidden Gem
The next day, I wanted to take off and have breakfast in Vipiteno. I’d heard about this quaint town that everyone drives by, and that is always a sign that I need to stop. It was Friday, lucky for us, and Vipiteno was having their weekly market.
We did have a very satisfying breakfast there of “egg muffins,” which were much better tasting than their name suggested. That and a steaming cappuccino, a walk through the town, and a look in the market and we were on our way.
Dolomites, here we come!


Our Dolomite Road Trip Looked like this:
- Drove from Ramstein area in Germany
- Overnighted in the Brenner Pass
- Day 1 – Vipiteno, Bolzano, and Selva Val Gardena (volksmarch)
- Day 2 – Siusi, Seiser Alm, Compatsch and Kastelruth – Cow festivals
- Day 3 – Völs am Schern, Tiers Cow Festival, Via Coller, St. Magdalena Bacon Festival
- Day 4 – Tre-Cime and Lago di Braies
- Day 5 – Kronplatz Peak, The Lumen Mountain Photography Museum and the Messner Mountain Climbing Museum
- Day 6 – 9 – Back to Bolzano, Bergamo, Annecy and the Retours des Alpages
Download a snapshot pdf of our Dolomite road trip for further planning.

Bolzano – Hand’s Down our Favorite Italian City
Our next stop, and really the region’s main city, was Bolzano. We’d been here before, but we just love it. We basically got gas, drove around a little, remembering our first trip there, and then headed out for new things to see.
However, Bolzano has an airport and a train station, and it’s a fantastic place to start your Dolomites adventure. The city is rather small, but there are a few really cool things to do:
- Town Center – walk through the boutiques
- Visit the market if it’s there (most days)
- Don’t miss the South Tyrol Archaeological Museum, which houses Oetzi, the Ice Man
For more information on Bolzano and what to do there, check out our article: Top 10 Things to do in Bolzano, Italy.


Selva Val Gardena – Just Wow!
Our first day in the mountains, Selva Val Gardena blew us away. We were there to do a volksmarch (hike), and so the first thing we needed to do was find the tourist office. If you are like me, European tourist offices are a must-stop along the way. I always find so many more things to do than I had found online. Why is that?
We purchased our start cards and started hiking. We were doing the 10 km hike, and we walked through town, a sports park, and then out into the valley between some majestic mountains.

I must say, the weather was less than ideal. When we started it was a bit drizzly and chilly, but by the time we got to the area around the most gorgeous little chapel, the Capella di San Silvestro, it was a full-on sleeting storm. Huge, wet flakes of snow were getting us wet.
Luckily, we stopped for a hot chocolate and a piece of cake at a snack bar called The Jauestation, not far from the chapel. Yum! It warmed us up and gave us the strength to keep going.

Siusi, Völ am Schlern, Kasteruth, Tiers – Pretty, much?
Siusi
We stayed in Siusi for a couple of nights, because there is lots to do in the surrounding area. Our lodging was at the Garni Hauenstein which had a fantastic breakfast and a bar, but not dinner. We had a hard time finding food, maybe because of the time of year, so we ended up both nights eating at Santner’s Pizzeria, which we were more than happy with, especially the desserts.

Siusi, itself, is a cute little village with a great bus station, if you want to bus around, and a grocery store. It’s good for a bit of a walk-around, but honestly, for us, it was just conveniently located near the gondola. Our favorite view was right across from our hotel, so that made it that much better.

Seiser Alm – Compatsch
The first thing we had on our to-do list was to take the gondola up the Seiser Alm. It was so close to our hotel, that we could have walked and many people did, but there was easy parking so we took our car anyway.
Up on the mountain, the views were beyond stunning. There are plenty of hiking trails and lots of pensions that you can either stay in or at least have a hot coffee or something to eat. The skiing looked epic, but not in October, of course.
We were there to enjoy the “Transhumanza,” Italian for Almabtrieb – the cows coming home from the Alps. We watched them a couple of places near Compatsch, then we headed down the mountain to Kastelruth where they were going to end up.

Kastelruth
No matter what time of year you happen to be in the Dolomites, put Kastelruth on your stop-by list. It is the quaintest little village, easy walking, with lots of Instagram-ability! LOL.
As I mentioned, the cows from the Seiser Alm were ending up here, so there was an entire festival there welcoming them home. It was a blast. The cows were a little worse-for-wear, but the wine, sandwich, and music all made it a very worthwhile stop.

Völs am Schlern
As we were chasing cow parades, I’d seen an announcement that there would be one in Völs am Schlern and one in Tiers, and according to the write-up, we should be able to do both. That was our plan. However, it didn’t work out that way.
We arrived in this small village, and it’s super-photogenic, super-quaint. I loved it.
As the time was drawing close, I started looking for good spots to take my photos, however, there was no one there, only a few church-goers. I got that feeling in my gut, found a poster, and realized the announced time was way off, and we were going to have to make a choice: stay here and wait for the cows or head to Tiers.
Even though the town was beautiful, we decided to scrap it and head to Tiers. It is a stunning place to stop, though, so if you are in the area, check it out.

Tiers
We made the right choice! Sometimes following your gut really pays off, and it did this time.
As we pulled into the town of Tiers, we looked up from the road to the church on the hill, and we saw these glowing somethings. We parked right below the church, and when we got out of the car we realized it was the town’s “Rosari” or Thanksgiving ceremony. The glowing things we saw were the sunlight catching in the men’s hat feathers. We made our way up and took a bunch of photos, enjoying this cultural event.
We did get a little worried, though, when again, I didn’t really see the town preparing for the cows. Usually, there are some barricades, tape, and other little details that tell you the cows are expected.
The Transhumanza was supposed to be at 1:00, so we had time. We decided to go for a ride and see if we could figure out their path.
Again, luck was on our side and about 3 km up the road we found what we were looking for. It was right next to one of the most famous photo stops in the region, the Capella di San Cipriano. When we arrived, we looked at each other and chuckled. We’d been there before…but it’s so hard to remember every little place we’ve stopped.
We watched the cows, ate at the festival, enjoying the sunshine, then drove over the Coller Pass, through St. Magdelena and back to our hotel.


Via Coller and St. Magdalena – Driving, Gawking…and Eating Bacon!
Driving around the Dolomites for a week, we drove over plenty of passes. Some I don’t even know the names of. It’s one of the main reasons driving is such a good idea. We found such gorgeous vistas. I must have taken a thousand photos.
It’s one of those things that we’ve developed over the years, our driving schtick. Jim drives, and I look for photos I want to take. I yell at him, “Stop!” Sometimes, he can right away, and sometimes, he will pull over a little way up the road. Sometimes, he has to turn around. And occasionally, he’ll drop me, then come back and get me. We’re fine with it, but it can get a bit nerve-wracking, especially on single-track roads with traffic. Trust me, it’s not for the faint-hearted.
At any rate, we loved all the passes, and Via Coller is one of the best!
On the way, we stopped in St. Magdalena, which was having their “Speck” festival…an entire festival celebrating their local bacon. It was small! But there was delicious bacon to be eaten, beer to drink, and an oompah band playing. We didn’t stay long, but we were glad we had stopped.
For the next two nights, we stayed at the Hotel Pörnbacher in Valdaora. It offered full board, but we went with half board except for one meal. We decided to try the dinner to check out what full board would be like. It was okay. The dinner was only about 16 Euros for a complete 3 courses, and breakfast was really good.

Tre-Cime and Lago di Braies
We got up, had breakfast, then headed out. Our plan for the day was to drive up to the Tre Cime parking lot and hike the 10 Km trail. This. Did. Not. Happen! Chalk it up to a travel fail.
You can read more about the drive here, but suffice it to say, you need to get up super-early to make a day like this happen.
Instead, we pivoted. Another place on our list to visit was the Lago di Braies, a turquoise mountain-fed lake where you can rent rowboats and enjoy being on the water.
This was thankfully not a fail. We arrived and parked in Parking Lot 3. We couldn’t even see the lake, but it was just across the street.

We rented a boat, enjoyed the water, and then decided, what the heck! Let’s try driving up the mountain again to see if we can get to the parking lot.
The views were spectacular, but we didn’t end up getting to do the hike, because it was later in the day. It’s still on our list. We’ll go back…someday.
Between the two areas is a cute little town called Toblach. We stopped there for a pizza and calazone lunch at Hans Pizzeria, which we loved. The best part was the view from outside…stunning!

Kronplatz Peak – A Dolomite Surprise…well, Two.
Because we’d messed up the day before, we had a little extra time. I’d put two museums on my list with the thought that if we made it to them it would be great, but if we didn’t get there, no big deal. Luckily, we had plenty of time, so the museums were on.
To reach these two museums, we had to take the Kronplatz Peak Gondola. At the top, there are restaurants, cafés, a chapel, and a huge bell.
The gondola price was a bit steep, but you know – vacation! After we got up to the top, though, we realized both museums were included in the price so it wasn’t that bad after all. Sometimes, you just got to spend the money, you know.
We loved every bit of our time on Kronplatz. We visited both the Lumen Mountain Photography and the Messner Mountain Climbing Museums. Amazing! These really should be blocked into your itinerary. You won’t want to miss them.
That night was our last in the Dolomites, and we stayed in a cute place on the way back towards Bolzano called Casa di Franz in Vigo di Fassa. It was located in yet another stunning pass, the Gardena Pass. No food options at the hotel, but comfy rooms and friendly hosts. And we ate at one of the many pizzerias in the town.
That was the last day of our Italian Alps trip. When we woke up, we drove on to Bergamo for two nights and one full day in this surprising lesser-visited city, then onto France where we were meeting up with friends in Annecy for, yes, you guessed it, another cow festival called the Retour des Alpages.
Most people will want to return to Bolzano to turn in their rental car and fly to their next destination. However, no matter how you do it, a Dolomites road trip is a must for stunning views, friendly and helpful people, and exceptional cuisine.

Hiking in the Dolomites
Jim and I are not hard-core hikers. We like to walk. Even the word “hike” might be a little strenuous for us, but the good thing is there are so many trails in the Dolomites that it doesn’t matter what your preferred level of hiking is, you will have lots of choice.
As you know, this past year, we rekindled our love for “volksmarching,” which is walking/hiking in organized events all over Europe. One of the main reasons we headed to Val Gardena was to do the valley hike and get an Italy stamp in our log books.
As you know, we also had planned to do the Tre-Cime 10 KM hike, but we were waylaid due to the hordes of tourists driving the road. I guess they, like us, liked the idea of walking when it was a bit cooler. So, we didn’t get to do that one, and it remains on our list. Darn.

Weather in the Dolomites
As you might guess, in mountain areas, there can be one type of weather at the base of the mountain and an entirely different weather as you climb higher and higher.
Most of the time, especially in the lower regions, the weather is mild, and depending on the season, it’s always warmer than I expect it to be.
On this trip, we were there during the first week of October, and I have to say it was a refreshing 50-60 degrees, which, for me, is perfect for hiking and being outside. I love wearing a sweater or sweatshirt to keep the chill off.
If you like it warmer, by all means go more in the summertime.

Best Time to Visit the Dolomites
This is a tricky question because there are pros and cons to each season. You know you.
I would say the majority of people will go at the height of summer or winter. Both are fantastic for their outside exploits. In summer, you can hike all over the mountains and not really have to worry about snow. However, the crowds can be overwhelming. The Dolomites are not a secret!
This leaves the shoulder seasons, the in-between season, read “cheap” season. The weather was all over the place at the beginning of October. We went from sunny to rainy to snowy, all in one day! This didn’t stop us, though. It added a little surprise at every step.
What did stop us is that being a season when fewer people visit, hotels and restaurants were closing down for their “break.” Time and time again, the hosts would let us know that we just squeaked in before they closed for a couple of months, and honestly, they weren’t necessarily our first choices, but those others were already closed. Again, this didn’t stop us, but it did present a few challenges.
I still think it was the best time to visit, though, because the cow festivals in Compatsch, Kastelruth, and Tiers are nothing short of amazing!

Recommended 1-Week Dolomite Road Trip Itinerary
We know that most people do not have the luxury of taking too long on vacation, so just to see the fantastic sights of the Dolomites and experience its spectacular hiking, the following itinerary will serve you perfectly.
You can adjust the days to add things important to you or chop some off if you don’t want to just drive and enjoy the small towns and scenery. It’s flexible, but you can definitely fill up your week!
- Bolzano – 1-2 days, depending on when you get there and seeing all the sights
- Val Gardena – 1 day hiking through the valley
- Seiser Alm – 1 day – great hiking opportunities
- Siusi – Völ am Schlern – Tieres – St. Magdalena – 1 day of checking out cute towns
- Tre-Cime and Lago di Braies – 2 days – hike the Tre-Cime trail, maybe overnight in the rifugio
- Kronplatz – 1 day – visit the 2 stunning museums at the top of the mountain
- Back to Bolzano – head home
Map of the Highlights of the Dolomites – Italian Alps

Conclusion
No matter what you decide, know this. A Dolomite road trip is going to be one of the most beautiful, cultural, and amazing things you can do in Italy. It’s nothing like the Vatican, Cinque Terre, or even Lucca, but it’s more than worth your time. Just go!

Author Bio: Corinne Vail is a travel photographer, food lover, and a perpetual traveler who has been travel writing for over 14 years. For many years she lived overseas in Germany, Japan, Turkey, South Korea, and the Netherlands teaching the children of the US. military. She’s visited over 90 countries, and she’s not stopping anytime soon.